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Offline Roel1964

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Re: Low oil pressure light
« Reply #220 on: August 01, 2020, 09:28:27 AM »
*Originally Posted by RJVieira [+]
Thank you for the reply.

I'll check the cooling system for leaks and measure the oil pressure as you advice. I'm no mechanic, but I don't wont to pay a gigantic amount of money to reach the end without a solution.

I already bought new coolant and new oil, I'll try to change it next week and check all of that.

One of the things I've noticed, in those hot days when the oil pressure triggers, the RPM of the engine it's at 800/900... on the RPM dash, it's written that the minimal RPM is 1000... I saw the post that you changed the stop screw to raise the RPM, I'll try to do the same, because when I turn the throttle and raise RPM to 1100, the light goes out... So I assumed the RPM is dropping to much causing oil pressure to drop to much also. Probably the stepper motor needs again some cleaning and adjusting...

Thank you,
I'll let you know if raising the RPM to 1100/1200 worked.   

800/900 RPM sounds pretty low to me.
If you have the dealer tool software, i would suggest to first check the throttle body synchronisation. When the throttles are out of balance/synchronisation, this can also affect the idling of the engine.
When the throttle body synchronisation is OK and the idle is still low, then maybe also reset the learned values to force the ECU to start all over again with trimming the fuel injection based
on the TPS, coolant temperature and intake air pressure. When you reset the ECU by letting the bike idle for 15 minutes, then maybe put a fan close to the radiator and the regulator/rectifier when doing this in hot weather. I blew the regulator/rectifier once doing this in hot weather. The rectifier/regulator is positioned directly above the radiator/exhausts, so it gets pretty hot there when the bike does not get any riding wind. A fan will help to keep the temperature from rising too high.
Also check that your battery is still OK. When the alternator is working hard to keep the battery charged, this can also lower the idle speed.
If all that is OK, i guess you ruled out most of the other obvious causes of a low RPM, before you start adjusting the idle stop screw or checking the stepper motor.

Success. Keep us informed. Maybe we can learn something new.

Offline Seanocaoimh

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Re: Low oil pressure light
« Reply #221 on: September 17, 2020, 01:45:37 PM »
 :187:
  Hi all,
    Just to inform those interested in how I faired out with the manual adjuster cable I fitted to the  tiger.
I removed the throttle bodies, which gave me access to
The set screw. I removed the screw and installed a cbr 600 cable adjuster, which threaded straight in/on. Took the bike for a ride, it idled at 1300rpm  ,but the oil light came back on. I then replaced the cable with the original set screw and found I had a flat spot at 2800rpm . I then performed the 12min re - programming which sorted out the flat spot. Six minutes into the re-program the low pressure light came on and for the remaining time  it stayed on with no effect on the engine. I didn't have to touch /remove the stepper motor.


Offline RJVieira

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Re: Low oil pressure light
« Reply #222 on: September 20, 2020, 11:38:38 AM »
Hi there again,

The problem continues, I've changed the oil, oil filter and coolant. Send the bike to the mechanic to check valve clearance. After the valve clearance, the bike looks smoother and more responsive. As I've said, when the weather was to hot, the RPM used to drop to 800/900rmp. After the checking the valves the RPM is where is supposed to be 1100/1200rpm...

Same as you, the problem was "solved" for a few days. Now the light turns on at 1100rpm... same thing, push the throttle a little bit, and the light turn off. I've noticed the oil pressure light turns on when the engine is more or less at 100C... the fan quicks in at 103.

I was thinking on changing the fan to turn on at 100C, is there a problem to make the fan to turn sooner?

Next step I'll do the throttle body balance.

By the way, checking valve clearance the mechanic noticed the tensioner was done and need to be changed, but he said tha cam chain was ok... Is it normal the tensioner to last only 87000km?

Offline AvgBear

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Re: Low oil pressure light
« Reply #223 on: September 20, 2020, 06:04:41 PM »
*Originally Posted by RJVieira [+]
The problem continues, the problem was "solved" for a few days. Now the light turns on at 1100rpm... same thing, push the throttle a little bit, and the light turn off.
Oil pressure can be a function of temperature and the oil's viscosity -- along with clearances within the engine. The easiest to change of those three would be the oil's viscosity -- IOW, heavier/thicker oil.

*Originally Posted by RJVieira [+]
By the way, checking valve clearance the mechanic noticed the tensioner was done and need to be changed, but he said tha cam chain was ok...
The FSM outlines a procedure for checking accumulated cam-chain wear (stretch) which is measuring a certain distance between pins (while stretched) and comparing to the factory's service limit. The plastic tensioner and guide blades may also be worn and need replacing.
If the automatic cam-chain tensioner is at the extended limit of its travel?, replacing it (without replacing worn cam-chain and/or parts) will only let the replacement extend to its limit as well.

*Originally Posted by RJVieira [+]
Is it normal the tensioner to last only 87000km?
Engines wear -- the generally accepted view is that of an ordinary bathtub where, when looking from a side view, engine wear is high - initially - and quickly falls to a relatively low level for most of the engine's life. This low level is analogous to the bottom/floor of the bathtub and is of an undetermined length (engine's normal life). Then, nearing the end of the engines life the wear begins to gradually increase (the tapered end of the bathtub) due mainly to increasing clearances / worn parts.
No one knows how long a T800 engine will last -- (to my knowledge) we haven't seen 200K miles yet.
There are a terrible lot of lies going about the world, and the worst of it is that half of them are true.
WSC

Offline RJVieira

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Re: Low oil pressure light
« Reply #224 on: September 28, 2020, 03:51:07 PM »
*Originally Posted by AvgBear [+]
Oil pressure can be a function of temperature and the oil's viscosity -- along with clearances within the engine. The easiest to change of those three would be the oil's viscosity -- IOW, heavier/thicker oil.

Thank you for the reply.
I've tried 10w50 from castrol, also tried fully synthetic and semi-synthetic. The light turns on as using 10w40 from castrol fully synthetic. I'll try to see if the pressure is inside de limits when rising the rpm.

*Originally Posted by AvgBear [+]
The FSM outlines a procedure for checking accumulated cam-chain wear (stretch) which is measuring a certain distance between pins (while stretched) and comparing to the factory's service limit. The plastic tensioner and guide blades may also be worn and need replacing.
If the automatic cam-chain tensioner is at the extended limit of its travel?, replacing it (without replacing worn cam-chain and/or parts) will only let the replacement extend to its limit as well.

I thought the same, I've never heard of people complaining with Triumph tensioner. I ask him if it was the blades or the cam chain... but he continued to say it's the tensioner, the blades and chain were perfect, only in low rpm was noticeable the tensioner problem, when rpm rises the chain gets tension... I used to had a Honda, it's normal the tensioner to last more or less 50.000km... but in Triumph never heard... I'll ask another dealer for a second opinion.

Thank you for your reply.

Offline AvgBear

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Re: Low oil pressure light
« Reply #225 on: September 28, 2020, 04:20:03 PM »
*Originally Posted by RJVieira [+]
I've never heard of people complaining with Triumph tensioner.
Thank you for your reply.
You're welcome.
The cam-chain tensioner can be a problem (it is a mechanical part...). It's operated by both light spring pressure and oil pressure -- so, if the oil pressure is low - so is the pressure to move the tensioner's plunger.
But the real problem that often affects the automatic cam-chain tensioner is a failure of plunger's non-return system. The plunger has circumferential detent grooves along its length and an internal (snap-ring-like) register ring that's designed to hold the plunger in-place once exended and not allow it to be pushed back by irregular cam-chain forces. If these parts are worn/broken/improperly assembled the tensioner may not work as designed.
IOW, the cam chain tensioner can be faulty.
There are a terrible lot of lies going about the world, and the worst of it is that half of them are true.
WSC

 


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