Aux Spotlights to high beam wiring...

[chuckxc]

You guys are assuming the lights are wired like most older bikes but they're not.
The Tiger 800 and 900, at least since 2018, use CAN-bus instructions sent to the headlight assembly. That assembly has circuitry to read the CAN-bus and switch the lights internally. Unless you are wiling to go inside the assembly to pick up the switched 12v line connected directly to the light, you won't be able to do what you want using straightforward wiring.
That's why I used the existing OEM fog light relay and switch.

[Aussie Tiger]

So there’s no way to run aux driving lights connected to high beam? I can see the wires running into the back of the headlight assembly plug and was hoping I could tap into the one powering high beam. I don’t want to use the fog light switch for 2 reasons. I’m using it for the fog lights and they work on low beam and high beam. And no one wants spot lights running in thick fog anyway. I certainly don’t want to damage the light or circuit, so is my only option to have them running a seperate switch, which is illegal? Or just forget about it.

[K1W1]

Originally Posted by Aussie Tiger

So there’s no way to run aux driving lights connected to high beam? I can see the wires running into the back of the headlight assembly plug and was hoping I could tap into the one powering high beam. I don’t want to use the fog light switch for 2 reasons. I’m using it for the fog lights and they work on low beam and high beam. And no one wants spot lights running in thick fog anyway. I certainly don’t want to damage the light or circuit, so is my only option to have them running a seperate switch, which is illegal? Or just forget about it.

As often happens spending big dollars might be the answer.
Several third party light vendors like for example Denali or D2D have Can bus compatible modules that allow all sorts of things to happen like the spot lights going onto full power when the horn is activated. If you want to stay legal and spend a heap of money they may be worth investigating but I think I would just go with the separate switch option. Here in Vic we have no annual vehicle safely checks so as about 50% of the vehicles on the road appear to have at least one faulty headlight with no repercussions I think a person would be real unlucky to get pinged for a switch.

[Aussie Tiger]

I’m not overly worried about the strict legality of it. I think I might have nudged a km or 2 over the speed limit once or twice, accidentally of course. And my old Scrambler might have been a tiny bit loud.....
It really is more the convenience of it and wanting to avoid the need to hit 2 switches when I’m suddenly confronted by a car coming towards me. I actually have a separate switch on there as a temp solution, which may need to become permanent. I’ll see how I go, but not convinced it’s worth spending lots on it. I really only fitted the lights because the mounts were there anyway.
Thanks for the replies.

[Aussie Tiger]

There’s some pics in my gallery if anyone’s interested.

[sjme]

Trust me, I researched this to death and spoke to Triumph Australia about it.... Can't be done. Well, not easily I expect. Correct on the Can bus comment. It all works in frequency signal and not actual voltage inputs unfortunately. Basically, we'd require triumph to supply a fix for this somehow for it to ever work.
Oh, and I ended up removing entire headlight assembly and checked voltage etc on each individual wire going in there and nothing. No change to any voltage on any wire in any way. That's just the way it is

[Aussie Tiger]

Really appreciate that update. Thanks sjme.  Oh well.

Might remove the lights and put the nice plastic caps back on the mounts, although the temporary  set up I have allows for a Fast side to side flashing mode that looks just like the red and blue we all hate to see behind us - except without the red and blue colours. Looks a bit menacing anyway……

[Have a cup of tea]

Darn

Thats a shame was hoping to do the same but via a relay so as not to upset the Canbus,

[frognuts]

It may help some of you to know that I have successfully wired auxiliary lights to a new (2020) Tiger 900 Rally Pro.

It is my understanding that the Tigers only use CANBUS to communicate between the ECU and the dash / engine sensors. All other wiring such as lights, horn etc is traditionally wired.

I have wired a pair of Denali S4's and used the Denali wiring kit. I have wired them to come on at 50% power with the ignition (regardless of main beam or DRL's) and switch to 100% with high beam or high beam flash. The Denali wiring kit basically provides nice neat cables and waterproof connections with a fuse and relay built in, but you could achieve the same results using a standard relay and fuse with any make of lights.

I used Denali's switch eliminator plug and used the included posi-tap connector to tap into the ignition wire going to the auxiliary din socket (under passenger seat) to provide an ignition feed.

I also used the Denali dual intensity controller which is basically a dual relay allowing the ignition feed above to switch on at 50% and a secondary input to switch up to 100%.
The main beam (100%) signal is easily accessed either on the multi-pin plug going into the back of the headlight unit (you'll need to peel back the rubber boot) or at the other end on one of the three multi-pin plugs under the passenger seat. It’s the plug on the left side nearest the aux din socket. On my 2020 Rally Pro the plug is a light cream colour (the other two are black) and the wire is blue with a white stripe and carries 12V when main beam is on. It is important not to drive the auxiliary lights straight from this but rather use this to switch a relay. I used another posi-tap connector to connect into this wire under the seat and I was able to conceal the relay and excess cable under the seat.

I hope that this information is of use to some of you trying to hook up additional lighting without any additional switches.

This photo shows the plug removed from the back of the headlamp / DRL unit - the blue wire with white stripe provides a 12V signal when high beam is active.


This photo shows the plug under the pillion seat which carries the same wire to the headlamp unit (you can just see my posi-tap below the plug)


This photo shows the above plug removed and the posi-tap connector tapping into the high beam wire (blue with white stripe)

[Jonjak]

I have just purchased these cheapo’s from flea bay. Any idea what amp fuse I should use. I wired them with 5 amp wire which incidentally looks a larger scale than the wires from the light. I ran a fused wire from battery to switch, then to both + on light. Then the blacks to ground. The lights work for around 3-5 seconds then blow my 7.5 A fuse. I didn’t have a 5A. There is no short with my wires, but guess it could be in the light units. I am reluctant to put a higher fuse in as yet, as that would involve replacing the supply cables for something beefier.