Tiger 800 / 900 - Main Discussion Section > Brakes and ABS

Nissin Caliper Pad Pin - Top Tip

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I'm new to the tiger, just bought a used 800xc. I didn't notice the brake calipers at first however, I noticed today that they are exactly the same as used to be fitted to previous generation Africa Twins and Transalps (probably many more models).

Anyway, on the above Honda's the Pad Pins and their Cover Cap/Screws are a much discussed pain in the proverbial, so as soon as I noticed them today I had a go at releasing the Cover Screws. As luck had it they came off easy enough which really is not always the case. I subsequently ordered up a set of Titanium Pins.

This is the top tip by the way, replace the pins with Titanium ones, discard the Cover Screws, they have no mechanical purpose. Once I a while, for example when oiling your chain, wind out your new Titanium pad screws then screw them back in again, just to keep the threads clean. Do not use copper grease or any other such substance. Welcome to hassle free pad changes, here comes the caveat, 'Trust me, it works'

On another note, the calipers used to suffer from rot. They would seize because of internal corrosion, requiring subsequent overhaul, only to need the same the following year. This became really tiresome for many, the reputed solution was changing the pistons for stainless steel ones although I have not verified this personally as a fix. Not sure if this is an issue on ours calipers either, but thought I would throw this little pearl out there.


this has been discussed here a few times.

My opinion is that your advice is dangerous.

I believe that the little outer cap that you advocate ditching is a secondary locking device. In the event that your pad pin starts to unwind, the cap is there to stop the pin from making a bid for freedom thus leaving your pads free to fall out and no front brakes.

Leave that little outer cap in place.

Caveat - I'm a safety engineer but not in the automotive industry and it's your bike and your life to do with whatever you like.

BTW - an impact driver gets the cap moving in one or two hammer blows every time.

Valid concern taff, and being a Safety Engineer, the correct one for you.

I don't recommend anyone to do any kind of work on their brakes without the experience, knowledge and understanding of the work they need to carry-out and what it entails. Glad you have had success with your impact driver  :028:

I have always applied a tiny smear of copper slip on that retaining plug/cap on all my bikes over many years and have NEVER had any issues, corrosion or seizing, even when used throughout many UK winters.

Bought a set of the Stainless pins here many moons ago. Still stainless  :169:


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