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Offline Newhorizons

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Why you want Explorer bars and how to fit them
« on: April 09, 2020, 10:02:00 AM »
Like most, my wrists ache with the XC bars, have fitted Rox risers, fitted the bars in every position known to man plus spent an afternoon actually cutting the std bars down 25mm each side to try and reduce the angle.... all to no gain.

Having read the multitude of complaints I managed to get a pair of Explorer bars on eBay and fitted them yesterday.

Haven't ridden yet but sitting on the bike the comfort experience is worlds apart from the standard bars so hope the attached helps you if you are pondering the same.

1.Major difference is the backwards bend, and what it meant to me was that my wrist's were in a neutral position for the length of the grip rather than a pressure point over the first half of my hand. Secondly I noticed that I have straighter arms, my elbows are not forced out and it was easy to bend my elbows with body movement which is desirable anyway. (if you have done a cornering course you know all about chicken arms/no bar weight.)

2.See Comparison photos, in reality the Explorer bars are the same length as standard but mine were cut down as per point 1.

3.You need to remove the inserts at the end of the bars with a pin punch because the E bars have a huge thread inside. My inserts have been drilled and tapped to take the Barkbuster bolts. The inserts go nicely inside the E bars.
So I used a 3.5mm drill on the bar and left approx 5mm of the insert 'outside' the bar.

This is because the E bars don't have as much flat tube as the std bars as you will see in the next section - my clutch perch is right on the bend so to get the clearance needed for the clutch/barkbuster you need to be that 5mm wider..  No issue if you have changed blades of course and gone mid or shorties.

4.Using the same 3.5mm drill I did another hole for the grips, this was about 25mm up the bar from the Explorer hole. You will need a M4x0 tap to create the thread and do it carefully the Aluminium is tough. I did the bottom one first then fitted it and marked the top when in place. Then removed the grip and did the next thread.

5.I went 30mm inside measurement for the switch block as I was worried that the clutch would hit the side of the block when fully pulled in (see pic) as I had an issues previously but all fitted nicely all be it I now have a slight 10mm gap between the grip and the switch block. I will test on the road first and if necessary remove the block and re drill the bar hole. If needed. Fairly easy fix, still on the bike.

6.The RHS has its own challenges. Firstly you need the same 5mm of insert out the end and I have a plastic washer to cover the first bit and one additional washer then the BB frame.

7.You need a special security bit to remove the inner round ring that secures the throttle tube into the assembly. Then play around with the position of the grip until it aligns with the end of the bar.. I also smeared on some chainsaw bar oil to make the tube nice and slippery coz its tacky and bio degradable.
I think my front switch block hole was around 35mm from the explorer hole.

8.Then I fitted the back part of the switch block and held in position,, fitted the front section loosely and marked where the front hole should be.
Drill both slightly larger than required so that you have wriggle room.

9.But then here comes the challenge. The brake master assembly will not go back into place; partly because it tries to hit the wiring loom, partly because it is also on the start of the elbow bend and partly because the shank on the actual lever now hits on the side of the switch block front face stopping it from fully releasing.

This suggests to me that the 1200 has slightly different parts/widths and they clearly fit nicely into the room available.

10.However I had the same problem when I cut down my standard bars with the mount sitting near the bend. The solution that worked then was to get 2 small pieces of aluminium, bend them over a piece of tube and insert them into the inside front section of the bar mount - inside the brake assembly mount.

This effectively pushed the whole assembly forward a couple of mm. I put some double sided carpet tape (very thin) on all the bits so that nothing moved when in position anyway.

You still have plenty of thread on the 2 bolts and the only noticeable difference is that there is a slightly larger gap between the 2 faces, but it works perfectly and clears on all aspects.
Surprisingly on the inside of that mount it is hollowed out and most of the surface contact is from the backing piece anyway (with the 2 mount bolts) so the aluminium insert actually gives more surface contact.

The inner bar cup mounts for the bark busters are no issue and as usual you need to play around a bit to get your lever heights and bark buster blades where you want them. This step was actually easier than last time when I cut the bars.

Time, around 4 to 5 hours. Drill press is handy, the 4mm tap is really tricky and I am surprised my cheapy didnt break but make sure you remove, clean and lubricate often. The security screws on the throttle are weird - I actually have a bit set but this is the only time I have ever used that bit. Maybe if you butcher them replace with standard screws?

 Hanging out for a ride now, this $#@&% C19.

 

Offline Newhorizons

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Re: Why you want Explorer bars and how to fit them
« Reply #1 on: April 09, 2020, 10:04:28 AM »
Inserts for Bark busters.

Online Bikerjimbob

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Re: Why you want Explorer bars and how to fit them
« Reply #2 on: April 09, 2020, 10:20:25 AM »
 :493: I just may get round to fitting mine this Easter weekend as we shouldn't be out and about visiting family etc, sounds like I have all the tools required so got no more excuses.
 :031: jim 

Offline Newhorizons

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Re: Why you want Explorer bars and how to fit them
« Reply #3 on: April 09, 2020, 11:56:52 AM »
Don't stress about the thread into the bars for the grips coz that was tricky, you could sub for self tapers.

What did surprise me was, I just picked a comfortable position on the risers and screwed the bars down and fitted all the bits n pieces, setting up lever angle and whatever

This morning I thought, I wonder if my Tank bag still fits coz with the old bars I either had the best of the worst position on the bars and no tank bag, or tank bag and very very uncomfortable.

To my surprise it fitted just perfect this morning, bars just lightly touching both sides of the bag, full lock for the key lock and not hitting the mirrors on the fairing.

Are you running bark busters, that's the tricky bit to get right, but having done it before I had base measurements... so that's why I tried to include all the spacings.

One of the reasons my first effort with the std bars was such a pita, was every time I tried a different position on the bars and rox risers etc (multiple efforts to no avail) I had to reset my levers/BB blades but the angle of the switch blocks was changing all the time to and had to file the mount holes a few times to try and bring them back into a comfortable position...really frustrating.



 

Offline Newhorizons

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Re: Why you want Explorer bars and how to fit them
« Reply #4 on: April 09, 2020, 12:09:11 PM »
So on the last point I just remembered, make sure the bars are in the comfortable zone first so that when you get to doing the switch blocks you may wish to drill your holes a bit lower than the EBar to ensure you get the angle 'you' want on the switch face.

I forgot to put that in my notes, coz on the lhs (indicators etc) I actually drilled my mount hole about 2 mm lower than the one on the Ebar...so don't accept that there position is your comfortable.

Figured that I cant imagine dropping the bars back towards me anymore, particularly now that everything 'fits' but If doing a lot of dirt its easy to raise them a bit for standing up but then position of the switches is not as critical at that position... just saying

Online Bikerjimbob

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Re: Why you want Explorer bars and how to fit them
« Reply #5 on: April 09, 2020, 01:11:33 PM »
Some great information there thankyou, yes I do run bark busters so I will pay particular attention to that part.
But from the sounds of it the job was very worthwhile, now really looking forward to getting the job done even if I can only ride around the block to try it out.
 :031: Jim

Offline saddletramp

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Re: Why you want Explorer bars and how to fit them
« Reply #6 on: June 04, 2020, 05:31:35 PM »
I changed over to Explorer Bars in 2014 (on my Tiger 2013) and still think it is one of the best mods that I did over the years.
Rory  (RJ to my buddies)

'11 WR250R
'13 Tiger 800XC

Online fac191

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Re: Why you want Explorer bars and how to fit them
« Reply #7 on: June 04, 2020, 11:40:44 PM »
Same here 2012 Roadie much more comfortable for my wrists.

Online Londonglide

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Re: Why you want Explorer bars and how to fit them
« Reply #8 on: June 12, 2020, 09:29:56 AM »
I see quite a lot of different part numbers for Explorer bars. Do they vary much, other than colour?

 


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