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Offline suffolktiger

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Tuning and reworking WP Suspension.
« on: July 25, 2020, 09:01:46 AM »
Has anybody had their WP Suspension reworked and/or tuned by a professional?

Ive got the late gen XC and largely think the suspension is pretty good.  Ive added preload on the rear for my weight to get close to 30% sag but the front isnt adjustable, I think it has too much sag.  The cable tie shows travel goes to around 20mm of the end of the fork, so Im guess around 10mm of travel left?  Thats heavy road only braking.

Also can the fork be dropped the extra 5mm through the clamps if wanted to extend the rake a touch?

Offline Newhorizons

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Re: Tuning and reworking WP Suspension.
« Reply #1 on: July 25, 2020, 03:34:17 PM »
I struggled with the dive in the front of my 2015 Xc.
It had huge weight / brake dive plus I was scraping all the time through dips in corners when the suspension was loaded.
Note I have dog bones and are about 5 or 6 mm up in the triple.
When I pulled the fork top off I noticed that there is a preload shaft at the top of the spring nut but that it is also the lock for the spring mount to the adjusting rod ...which was already well down that shaft... eg there was next to no additional preload thread available near that nut position and I wasnt sure if I did change that how that might impact the preload and rebound adjustment clicks.
My bike was second hand and I dont know if was standard internal preload or not?
I had previously replaced springs on another bike and had plastic or neoprene hollow tubes that are typically placed above the spring held down by the fork cap to get into the sag range.
With a bit of persuasion and filing i was able to open up the ID of that tube and it fitted over the mount onto the top of the spring.
I only had one short piece of tube but it gave me 8mm in length when halved and that seems a outcome for me.
It rides almost the same on the road through bumps but the wallow is gone.
Note, I also added 15cc of fork oil both side to slightly increase the hydraulic effect in the fork tube, so I will be slightly higher than spec but not noticeably and my theory is that is only effective when the fork is under more load and lower in the stroke and the air volume is compressed.
So I havent measured my sag but the feeling is way better and the fork dive is all but gone.
I am running around standard preload on the rear but I am only 75 kg without gear so it actually seems reasonably balanced with lots of room for play. Touring is a different story,
I intend to pull the front calipers down when we get out of winter, clean the pots and use plenty of rubber grease and hopefully gain a smidge more initial bite having already fitted sintered pads and rotated the pots with circlip piers to loosen them up. Damn they were tight so that really helped.
So I think my current spring tension will withstand lots of grab, if I can find some in the next service.
Yeah I have scrapped a few times but I was pushing the limits and wtf where did that corner come from plus I was still on the anchors when turning in so I wasnt the best racing line haha.

Btw, any following this post, have they ever replaced the chicken bolts under the pegs with some form of knob or slider coz the road surface was really rough and I thought I was going to ripp the bolt right off... it took a real hit and did spook me initially. Anything that would wear away with less impact would be considered.

Online Q

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Re: Tuning and reworking WP Suspension.
« Reply #2 on: July 25, 2020, 06:13:22 PM »
*Originally Posted by Newhorizons [+]
Btw, any following this post, have they ever replaced the chicken bolts under the pegs with some form of knob or slider ...

got rid of them completely by screwing them out - was irritating the crap out of me
When you talk, you only repeat what you already know - when you listen, you learn something new

Offline tauzero

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Re: Tuning and reworking WP Suspension.
« Reply #3 on: July 26, 2020, 02:30:18 AM »
Another way of getting rid of the feelers is to fit the Triumph CNC footpegs that don't have them. Or just take them off, or see how far you can wear them down. I've used option 1 on my XRx and options 2 and 3 on my other Triumphs.
Tiger 800 XRx, Bonneville T120 Black, SpeedTona, Speed Dent
Gone but not forgotten: Scrambler 900, Tiger 1050, Bonneville SE, Sprint ST 955i, Trophy 4, Sprint 900, Daytona 900, Tiger 900, Trident 900

Offline deefer45

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Re: Tuning and reworking WP Suspension.
« Reply #4 on: August 19, 2020, 11:06:28 PM »
*Originally Posted by suffolktiger [+]
Has anybody had their WP Suspension reworked and/or tuned by a professional?

Ive got the late gen XC and largely think the suspension is pretty good.  Ive added preload on the rear for my weight to get close to 30% sag but the front isnt adjustable, I think it has too much sag.  The cable tie shows travel goes to around 20mm of the end of the fork, so Im guess around 10mm of travel left?  Thats heavy road only braking.

Also can the fork be dropped the extra 5mm through the clamps if wanted to extend the rake a touch?

Ive just posted a thread about having my suspension reworked (not by WP though) and then saw this, you might be interested in having a read of it

Offline tipsies

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Re: Tuning and reworking WP Suspension.
« Reply #5 on: March 27, 2021, 07:51:36 AM »
*Originally Posted by Newhorizons [+]
I struggled with the dive in the front of my 2015 Xc.
It had huge weight / brake dive plus I was scraping all the time through dips in corners when the suspension was loaded.
Note I have dog bones and are about 5 or 6 mm up in the triple.
When I pulled the fork top off I noticed that there is a preload shaft at the top of the spring nut but that it is also the lock for the spring mount to the adjusting rod ...which was already well down that shaft... eg there was next to no additional preload thread available near that nut position and I wasnt sure if I did change that how that might impact the preload and rebound adjustment clicks.
My bike was second hand and I dont know if was standard internal preload or not?
I had previously replaced springs on another bike and had plastic or neoprene hollow tubes that are typically placed above the spring held down by the fork cap to get into the sag range.
With a bit of persuasion and filing i was able to open up the ID of that tube and it fitted over the mount onto the top of the spring.
I only had one short piece of tube but it gave me 8mm in length when halved and that seems a outcome for me.
It rides almost the same on the road through bumps but the wallow is gone.
Note, I also added 15cc of fork oil both side to slightly increase the hydraulic effect in the fork tube, so I will be slightly higher than spec but not noticeably and my theory is that is only effective when the fork is under more load and lower in the stroke and the air volume is compressed.
So I havent measured my sag but the feeling is way better and the fork dive is all but gone.
I am running around standard preload on the rear but I am only 75 kg without gear so it actually seems reasonably balanced with lots of room for play. Touring is a different story,
I intend to pull the front calipers down when we get out of winter, clean the pots and use plenty of rubber grease and hopefully gain a smidge more initial bite having already fitted sintered pads and rotated the pots with circlip piers to loosen them up. Damn they were tight so that really helped.
So I think my current spring tension will withstand lots of grab, if I can find some in the next service.
Yeah I have scrapped a few times but I was pushing the limits and wtf where did that corner come from plus I was still on the anchors when turning in so I wasnt the best racing line haha.

Btw, any following this post, have they ever replaced the chicken bolts under the pegs with some form of knob or slider coz the road surface was really rough and I thought I was going to ripp the bolt right off... it took a real hit and did spook me initially. Anything that would wear away with less impact would be considered.


Hi, could you tell me whats the size of the spacer in length?

cheers

 


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