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Online ZShyster

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How to Remove and Re-key Pannier Locks
« on: September 01, 2020, 11:20:40 PM »
I found this great description on how to remove and re-key the locks used in the panniers.  I can take no credit for the content, I just stumbled across it as I was looking for a "How To".

https://advrider.com/f/threads/how-to-rekey-triumph-tiger-800-lock-cylinders.1396176/

some additional thoughts mentioned where I found the above link,

https://advrider.com/f/threads/where-to-buy-lock-shims-to-rekey-a-lock-barrel.1411964/

Good Luck and Ride Safe,
ZShyster

Offline RyanWilson

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Re: How to Remove and Re-key Pannier Locks
« Reply #1 on: December 30, 2020, 12:58:10 PM »
Thank you so much for sharing the procedure that will help me to re-key Painer locks. It will save my money from hiring locksmith in birmingham for that issue.

Offline KildareMan

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Re: How to Remove and Re-key Pannier Locks
« Reply #2 on: December 30, 2020, 01:58:04 PM »
Try searching this site.  You'll find in about 9 years back.
Anglo-Chilean Irishman - Lost again

Online ZShyster

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Re: How to Remove and Re-key Pannier Locks
« Reply #3 on: December 30, 2020, 02:47:00 PM »
RyanWilson

Here are some additional photos I took when rekeying mine.  Once you have the locks out you have to disassemble the one you want to rekey and probably one you will canabalize for the proper wafers.

First notice that the wafers will stick up out of the barrel when either no key is in the lock or an improper key is in the lock.



When the proper key is in the lock all of the wafers will retract to flush with the barrel.



When disassembling the lock carefully pry up the cap by first prying under each crimp then carefully pulling the cap up with a rocking motion using a pliers.  Have a clear work area and move slowly so you do not scatter the small internal parts by jerking the cap off.  You will never find those small springs!!!





Carefully remove the springs and the bar and place in a small cup so you will not lose them.  Then turn the barrel over and tap on your bench a couple times to move the pin out of position so you can grab it and remove it.  However when you do, keep your hand over the barrel so all of the wafers don't fall out and scatter.



You will only be working with the 6 wafers closest to the key slot.  The last one keeps the lock in the pannier and will not retract with the key.  You will notice the different wafers once you remove them.



Notice the difference in the length of the protrusions on the bottom right of the wafers in the picture.  These control where the wafer will be when the key is inserted.  The procedure I used was to insert a wafer in spot 1 (closest to the key slot), insert the pin to hold it, then insert the key and see if the wafer retracted until flush.  If it did not, try another wafer in the spot and repeat the procedure.  Once you got the wafer to retract to flush, move on to the next one until you are complete.  As I said, I had to canabalize another lock to get a set of 6 wafers that would work.  I could not find anywhere to buy the wafers themselves.  You will notice the relationship between the length of the protrusion and the cut in the key to see how far the key will pull the wafer down.

When they all retract properly, insert the pin, the bar and the springs, then carefully put the cap back on and squeeze the crimps back into place.

Then reinsert the lock in the pannier.  Remember the 6 wafers must all retract to flush, not close, but flush.

Good luck! and Ride Safe.

ZShsyster

 


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