chain oilers

[Djairouks]

In my opinion scottoilers are a waste of oil, if like Paul says filling every 1000 miles, I filled my Cobrra
about 3 times in 12'000Km, which is great when travelling no need to haul tons of oil.

[Paulhere]

Originally Posted by Tallpaul

I couldn't get on with the E oiler, fiddly and too many settings, I much prefer the old vacuum manual version now fitted to my XR.

Ayup m8, Ah yes, need reset level in 'puter at every fill. Ok up to now, 4 years. I like consistency, 60 sec boost, a fill lasts easy 1k & more.

The vac systems are easy, I have them on my Sport & traillie, latter has touring ressie, that lasts all year.

Dealer said Triumph told them not to fit vac systems to fbw models.

[Newhorizons]

I am running Cobrra also.

What I find is that it works consistently irrespective of what oil or blend I am using.
In Aust we can get really hot conditions and my hot weather blend at the moment is some gear oil mixed with chainsaw bar oil.

The best blend I have had was Shell MC Chain oil in a plastic bottle (was bought forever ago but never used when aerosols became popular) mixed with chain saw bar oil. That is really nice and sticky and doesn't melt, but have run out of the old Shell bottle.

So I am typically giving it a twist 5 to 10 mins before I stop either for fuel or the end of the day. Unfortunately whilst the end of the feed line doesn't drip I have/can have a build up inside near the counter shaft sprocket.... and that does drip. But maybe I have been giving it too much ??

However one of the strategies behind the blend was occasionally going off road on a long trip I can actually wash the chain down a bit with a garden hose as the chain bar oil is biodegradable and then re oil when dry... down the road a bit ... yeah when its really wet the chain gets dry but we will all suffer from that on all systems ... but I do have some control on how much lube and when.

I arrived at this strategy having done a really long 3 week trip and sand and dirt stuck to the sticky aerosol lube like nothing else. Short of going to a car wash and doing the engine clean on the chain that sand was pretty much embedded for the whole trip. Where as with the current system, a hose wash or even better a $2.00 degreaser can will pretty much clean the chain in 5 mins, ride dry and clean and ready for re oil down the highway.

I pretty much look for a thin film on the side of the rear sprocket in conjunction with a bit of color on the rollers.

How do others assess the right amount of lube? Just around the streets I wouldn't lube from one week to the next, but on the highway its way different. 

[mcinlb]

Another Cobra user , I just use gear oil as per manufacturers spec. A quarter turn every 200/300 mls depending on weather, sometimes there are a few spots on the number plate but not often

[Paulhere]

The amount of oil used depends on setting relative to conditions, not on the type of oiler.
Set them low & they might lube the chain somewhat, but not wash off the crud. Save oil = shorten life of chain kit.

[dragon88]

Another plus for Cobra. Looked at the Scotts and Turtoros etc, each to their own but I like the simplicity and efficiency of the Cobra. Less to go wrong.

[KildareMan]

Originally Posted by dragon88

Another plus for Cobra. Looked at the Scotts and Turtoros etc, each to their own but I like the simplicity and efficiency of the Cobra. Less to go wrong.

That and the positive displacement of oil when you turn the mechanism. The others are just too dependant on external factors - temperature mainly.

[Paulhere]

Originally Posted by KildareMan

That and the positive displacement of oil when you turn the mechanism. The others are just too dependant on external factors - temperature mainly.

Wouldn't it need to be controlled by an electric pump to not be dependent on temperature.

[KildareMan]

Originally Posted by Paulhere

Wouldn't it need to be controlled by an electric pump to not be dependent on temperature.

Turning the top forces oil out the bottom.  It's a screw down mechanism. To refill you have to fill and rotate body the other way to expand the reservoir.

[Paulhere]

Originally Posted by KildareMan

Turning the top forces oil out the bottom.  It's a screw down mechanism. To refill you have to fill and rotate body the other way to expand the reservoir.

I know how it works, it'll still drip slower for cold oil than hot.