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Offline IH8electricity

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Hi everyone, this is my first post on this forum. My fiance has a 2018 Tiger 800 xCX with 10K miles. She recently returned from a long riding trip and a few days later, the bike would not start at all. We put it on the tender, but the battery was shot. Got a new healthy battery, plugged it in, turned the key on and everything was fine until we went to start it, did that and everything turned off, dead as a doornail. with the battery connected, its reads about 4.7V, with the battery disconnected, or the main fuse out, it reads 12.7V. Oddly, not a single fuse is blown, including the 30A fuse under the battery. I started looking at it today, but its getting too hot in the garage to continue. The problem seems really strange to me. I think its gotta be related to the starter, but I'm not that confident. Any advice or tips would be greatly appreciated. I have the Haynes manual diagrams and know my way around a multimeter.

Offline chuckxc

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Narrow down the  problem. Apparent short. Sequentially remove each fuse to locate probable cause. Use schematic, some copies on forum on search. Inspect cable looms for damage. The Rec/Reg is under the tank in front.  That is also another possible cause.
« Last Edit: August 13, 2021, 11:41:45 PM by chuckxc »
Laterally unstable unless moving.

My third Triple - 1976 Laverda 3CL Jota
My 4cyl grunt - 2005 Honda CB1300F

Online K1W1

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Make sure that the kill switch on the throttle assembly is in the on position.
Stupid simple I know but that little item has fooled many many experienced riders over the years.

As Chuck says just logically work through it. If it was running fine then would not start it is less likely to be a short and more likely to be something that could gave happened externally like the kill switch or the side  stand lock out switch.

Offline chuckxc

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*Originally Posted by K1W1 [+]
Make sure that the kill switch on the throttle assembly is in the on position.
Stupid simple I know but that little item has fooled many many experienced riders over the years.

No, it's not the switch because--- " with the battery connected, its reads about 4.7V, with the battery disconnected, or the main fuse out, it reads 12.7V. "

It's a shorted cable or failed component.
Laterally unstable unless moving.

My third Triple - 1976 Laverda 3CL Jota
My 4cyl grunt - 2005 Honda CB1300F

Offline Londonglide

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If something is pulling a new/fully charged battery from 12.xx to 4.7, a lot of power is being dissipated somewhere. As chuck says, you need to isolate the system involved, by removing fuses etc.
I would also suggest looking at possible worn insulation on battery/starter cables, possibly from rubbing/chafing during the ride that preceded the issue.
You may want to check the Regulator/Rectifier, as it may have failed with a short, but I'm not sure if that is permanently connected to the battery??

Offline T800XC

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*Originally Posted by Londonglide [+]
If something is pulling a new/fully charged battery from 12.xx to 4.7, a lot of power is being dissipated somewhere. As chuck says, you need to isolate the system involved, by removing fuses etc.
I would also suggest looking at possible worn insulation on battery/starter cables, possibly from rubbing/chafing during the ride that preceded the issue.
You may want to check the Regulator/Rectifier, as it may have failed with a short, but I'm not sure if that is permanently connected to the battery??
This is where my money would be put. The R/R is connected driectly to the output of the 30A main fuse so is always connected to the battery if the fuse is good.

Remove all of the fuses (except the main 30A one under the battery) and re-check the battery voltage. If it's still being pulled low then your rectifier/regulator would appear to be shot.
  
...happiness isn't happiness without a violin-playing goat...

Offline IH8electricity

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Thank you all for your advice. It's looking like the problem was likely the rectifier. With the rectifier disconnected, I was able to get the bike started with a jump, and no battery connected. Running on the rectifier, it seems to only be putting out about 10.7Volts, so I think the rectifier is likely the culprit here. Will update again, when I get the new rectifier installed, its on order, so might be a week or so.

Offline chuckxc

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 :028: good to hear. Thanks for the feedback.
When you mentioned about it being a hot day that's the first thing that came to mind. R/Rs don't like heat. That's why they are mounted up front in the airflow. And failure mode is quite often a shorted output.
Laterally unstable unless moving.

My third Triple - 1976 Laverda 3CL Jota
My 4cyl grunt - 2005 Honda CB1300F

 


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