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Offline MuddySump

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Re: Lock Barrel Removal from Top Box
« Reply #10 on: March 04, 2013, 10:47:06 AM »
You cant get seperate barrels to match your key, you have to get a complete lockset. Ignition, fuel cap and rear seat lock.

There is a tool you can make that is like an L shape but needs to be really small to fit down the barrel and be able to turn it to release the last pin.

I made one before on my first go grinding down an allen key but lost it somewhere and never been able to get it right again.
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Offline arrybash

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Re: Lock Barrel Removal from Top Box
« Reply #11 on: March 04, 2013, 07:17:56 PM »
I have plenty of old allen keys and access to a bench grinder may as well have a go as nothing to loose.  I can test it out on one of the spare barrels I have for the panniers.  Thanks for the guidance
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Offline arrybash

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Re: Lock Barrel Removal from Top Box
« Reply #12 on: March 04, 2013, 08:40:03 PM »
Success at last.  I ground down an old allen key into an "L" shape as advised by Muddy Stump.  I kept trying it in a spare barrel until it turned and moved the tumbler.

When it was correct I tried it on the barrel in the top box and it pulled the lock right out first time.

Attached is a photo.

Chris
2013 Triumph Tiger 800XC
2012 BMW R1200 GS Adventure
2006 Yamaha TTR250
1989 Kawasaki ZX10

Offline MuddySump

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Re: Lock Barrel Removal from Top Box
« Reply #13 on: March 04, 2013, 08:48:33 PM »
Yea thats it, good job, keep it safe  :152:


Please dont call me Muddy Stump again  :492:
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Offline arrybash

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Re: Lock Barrel Removal from Top Box
« Reply #14 on: March 04, 2013, 09:09:32 PM »
Apologies I now see the T is not there.

DRZ400 owner, I asume you go green laning.  I have a Yamaha TTR250 which I dedicate for use in North Wales on the green lanes.  Never taken the GSA beyond a rough track and doubt I will take the XC either.

I don't mind if the TTR takes a few tumbles indeed thats what I bought it for but the bills on an XC or GSA could get expensive if it goes down.
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Offline GearHd6

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Re: Lock Barrel Removal from Top Box
« Reply #15 on: March 04, 2013, 09:28:36 PM »
That is great arry! So what do you do just insert that tool where the key would go? And then what, twist, push, pull?
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Offline arrybash

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Re: Lock Barrel Removal from Top Box
« Reply #16 on: March 04, 2013, 11:21:08 PM »
You have to push it to the very end on the barrel and then twist it 90 degrees to pull the lock tumbler down.  However it only works in one direction and I will need to get a lock barrel down from my loft to advise which way.

Note you can feel the lock tumbler being moved, but if you turn through more than 90 degrees it will spring back.  When the lock tumbler is down the barrel will just pull out.

To make the key you really do need a spare barrell to trial it on.  If the tang is to long it won't rotate, to short and it won't catch the tumbler.

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Offline MuddySump

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Re: Re: Lock Barrel Removal from Top Box
« Reply #17 on: March 05, 2013, 07:15:33 AM »
*Originally Posted by arrybash [+]
Apologies I now see the T is not there.

DRZ400 owner, I asume you go green laning.  I have a Yamaha TTR250 which I dedicate for use in North Wales on the green lanes.  Never taken the GSA beyond a rough track and doubt I will take the XC either.

I don't mind if the TTR takes a few tumbles indeed thats what I bought it for but the bills on an XC or GSA could get expensive if it goes down.
Yea i use the drz for green laning. I have used the xc on some easy lanes. It handles them really well. Wouldnt take it on some of the harder ones though. I struggle on the drz with those ones still
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Offline Mike_B

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Re: Lock Barrel Removal from Top Box
« Reply #18 on: March 05, 2013, 02:00:39 PM »
Could you not make that tool in a simpler manner, by taking a nail (one thin enough to slot down through the lock barrel) and bending a few mm of the tip over 90 deg in a vice?   You would then bend the other end of the nail over as well, to allow you to grip it with pliers to turn it.   Would be a lot easier than grinding down an Allen key.

What size Allen key did you use - and how long is the tang on the end?   I have panniers with the wrong keys, would be nice to use my own spare locks in them.

Offline arrybash

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Re: Lock Barrel Removal from Top Box
« Reply #19 on: March 05, 2013, 09:03:54 PM »
Got my digital vernier caliper out for the following dimensions, but I actually made it through trial and error using a spare lock to test it on.

Manufactured from a 2mm across the flats allen key. The dimension from the back of the allen key to the tip of the tang is 3.6mm.  The distance from the tip of the tang to the front of the allen key is 1.25mm.

I ground it flat to 1.25mm thick but this may not be neccessary.  I doubt using wire or a small nail will work. The bend needs to be very tight but it also takes a fair force to twist the allen key to move the tumbler, I use a pair of small mole grips.

Trying it again on the locks and I have noticed its easy to overturn the key and the tumbler springs back.  Hence probably best to keep to tang as long as possible, but this probably only means 0.5mm longer than mine.  If it doesn't turn its to long!!!

When looking at the lock in the top box the key slot is at the bottom.  The unlock key goes in with the tang to the right until it bottoms then twist anticlockwise through not more than 90 degrees.  If the tang is to long it won't turn. to short and it will rotate freely.  The correct length and you can feel the resistance from the tumbler as it pushes against the spring. As you rotate pull at the same time.  As soon as the tumbler clears the guides it will come out.

Hope this helps all with the problem.


Chris
2013 Triumph Tiger 800XC
2012 BMW R1200 GS Adventure
2006 Yamaha TTR250
1989 Kawasaki ZX10

 


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